Veteran winemaker Charlie Gilmore introduced the Cormorant 2021 Preston Vineyard, Sonoma County, a medium-bodied Rhône-style blend of 64 percent Grenache Blanc and Marsanne. The grapes are sourced from the certified organic Preston Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley, located about 25 miles north of the Russian River Valley AVA. Gilmore, a UC-Davis grad, started the Cormorant Cellars project in 2018 and created this blend in 2021 using low-intervention methods to let the fruit shine. The wine is co-fermented in a combination of seven-year-old once-used barrels, showcasing an old-school, Old World sensibility.
Despite being more nuanced than flashy, this wine boasts plenty of personality with notes of tart green and yellow fruits from the orchard, such as yellow cherry and plum, along with cooked Meyer lemon and a savory herbal undertone. Gilmore focused on creating a wine with good structure and bright freshness by successfully picking the Grenache Blanc fruit at the right time to avoid a heavy or bitter mouthfeel. The label features pacific crested cormorants, coastal birds that Gilmore fondly recalls watching with his father during family trips to the Monterey coast. Only 205 cases of this wine were made with an SRP of $27.
To elevate the wine tasting experience, a “pairing of the month” suggestion is provided: roasted sweet corn risotto with shrimp and steamed asparagus. The author recommends preparing a favorite risotto recipe, browning the pot with garlic and shallots, and roasting more shallots with corn kernels until lightly browned. Shrimp can be prepared by sautéing them with white wine and garlic or roasting them in the pan with the corn. Asparagus can be steamed and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and lemon, served on the side to complement the flavors of the wine.
Gilmore’s passion for Rhône Valley whites inspired him to create this Grenache Blanc/Marsanne blend with a focus on structure and brightness. The wine exudes a fresh and vibrant character thanks to the carefully picked Grenache Blanc fruit. The use of low-intervention methods during the winemaking process allows the fruit to shine through, resulting in a well-balanced and flavorful wine. With only 205 cases of this wine produced, it offers wine enthusiasts a unique and limited opportunity to enjoy a handcrafted Rhône-style blend.
The Cormorant 2021 Preston Vineyard, Sonoma County reflects Gilmore’s dedication to producing quality wines with a nod to tradition and craftsmanship. The blend of Grenache Blanc and Marsanne showcases the unique terroir of the Dry Creek Valley AVA, offering a taste of the region’s organic grapes and winemaking expertise. The wine’s subtle complexities and refreshing profile make it an ideal choice for pairing with a variety of dishes, enhancing the overall dining experience and bringing out the best in both food and wine. As an expression of Gilmore’s winemaking philosophy and commitment to quality, this wine stands out as a versatile and approachable option for wine lovers seeking something special.
