The Cerería Zalo, the oldest business in the center of Malaga, is a rare gem in a city dominated by tourism. Despite the proliferation of bars and franchises in recent years, this traditional store specializing in religious items, candles, and incense has managed to survive for generations. The current owner, José Ignacio Gonzalo, attributes their longevity to both specialization and owning the property, as the high rents in the area have caused many other historic businesses to close.
Fernando Alonso, a longtime resident of the city, noticed the rapid changes in his neighborhood driven by gentrification and tourism. Concerned about the disappearing traditional stores, he documented the history of Malaga’s oldest establishments in his book “Comercios históricos malagueños.” Over the years, eight of the 34 businesses featured in the book have closed, unable to withstand the effects of mass tourism and rising rents. The lack of local residents and competition from online retail giants like Amazon have also contributed to the demise of these iconic shops.
The impact of tourism and rising rents is evident in the closure of businesses like the ferretería El Llavín, which had been operating since 1884. Its building will now be converted into a tourist accommodation, reflecting the shift towards catering to tourists in the city center. The dwindling number of traditional stores is a source of concern for Carlos Carrera, president of the Centro Antiguo de Málaga neighborhood association, who emphasizes the psychological impact of losing longstanding businesses to franchises and souvenir shops. The changing landscape has made it challenging for locals to navigate their own neighborhoods.
Amidst the closures and transformations, some traditional businesses are finding ways to adapt and survive. Shops like the relojería Miguel Heredia and Zaldi Hogar remain in business by offering specialized services and products that cater to local customers. These businesses, often family-run for generations, provide a sense of continuity in a rapidly changing environment. However, even these establishments face challenges from the proliferation of tourist-focused businesses and escalating rents, which threaten their long-term viability.
The closure of iconic stores like Calzados Hinojosa, known for its alpargatas, and Café Central, famous for its coffee varieties, highlights the loss of Malaga’s unique identity. The replacement of these historic establishments with modern businesses catering to tourists further erodes the city’s traditional charm. For Fernando Alonso, the vanishing of these beloved shops represents a loss of what once made Malaga distinct from other cities, leaving him with a sense of nostalgia and sadness for the changing landscape.
