Two climbers were awaiting rescue near the peak of Denali, the tallest mountain in North America, after they and a third climber in their team requested help following summiting Denali during the busiest time of the mountaineering season. The third climber was rescued late Tuesday, but the condition of the other two climbers was not immediately known. The climbers had experience on high-elevation international peaks, and two had prior history on Denali, according to park spokesperson Paul Ollig. Rangers received an SOS message from the climbers, indicating they were hypothermic and unable to descend after reaching the 20,310-foot summit.
Despite attempts to communicate with the climbers and rescue them, cloud cover prevented the park’s high-altitude helicopter from reaching the mountain. The Alaska Rescue Coordination Center and the Alaska Air National Guard were called in for assistance. Two of the climbers were located between the 19,000- and 20,000-foot level of the mountain, while the third climber was seen by a climbing guide at about 18,600 feet. Conditions cleared enough for a high-altitude helicopter to land at a camp for climbers at 14,200 feet, where two climbers from another expedition were being treated for frostbite.
A third rescue attempt was made to reach the three climbers who sent the distress message. By then, one of the climbers had descended to a 17,200-foot high camp and was suffering from severe frostbite and hypothermia. The climber received aid from a guided party and was flown off the mountain. The other two climbers were at the “Football Field” but were unable to be reached due to clouds and windy conditions preventing rescuers from ascending the mountain. Park service personnel were waiting for conditions to improve before making further rescue attempts.
It was unclear how much survival equipment the two climbers awaiting rescue had, but it was believed to be minimal. The park spokesperson mentioned that teams going up on summit days often carry limited survival gear to move faster. The rescue operation was described as dramatic but not out of the ordinary, given the nature of climbing at high altitudes. With 506 climbers currently attempting to summit Denali, the Memorial Day weekend marks the beginning of the busiest two weeks of the climbing season. Another 117 climbers have completed their attempts, with 17 reaching the summit.
Denali National Park and Preserve, located about 240 miles north of Anchorage, is a popular destination for climbers looking to conquer North America’s tallest mountain. The challenging terrain and unpredictable weather conditions make rescues like this one a regular part of the climbing season. Park service personnel are on standby, waiting for a window of opportunity to reach the two climbers awaiting rescue and bring them down safely. The situation serves as a reminder of the risks involved in high-altitude mountaineering and the importance of being prepared for emergencies in such extreme environments.
