Miguel León comes from a family with a chiringuito in Torremolinos, where he spent summers watching a man making espetos de sardinas. At 16, he took over the task and has been making espetos ever since. He is now the chef at La Mar Bonita, his father’s restaurant, known for his award-winning espetos on the Costa del Sol. Miguel is dedicated to preserving the tradition of making espetos, a key part of Málaga’s cultural identity in the face of mass tourism.
Miguel’s recipe for perfect espetos relies on fresh, local sardines which are at their best during the summer months when they are fattier. He takes pride in using the right type of sardines, rejecting cheaper Italian varieties that lack the flavor and texture required for a good espeto. However, he laments the lack of interest in younger generations to take up the craft of espetero, as many sites now use inexperienced employees to cook fish. Despite the demanding work and harsh conditions, Miguel continues to make and serve over 200 espetos per day during peak season.
The Mesa del Espeto was created in Málaga to protect the tradition of espetos and ensure its continuity. The association aims to have the Unesco recognize espetos as intangible cultural heritage and seeks to maintain the key aspects of the dish and the craft of the espetero. The word espetero is commonly used, but the traditional term is amoragador. Historically, the espeto was a simple dish enjoyed by fishermen and the less affluent but gained popularity among all social classes in the late 19th century.
The technique of cooking sardines on a caña, or cane, dates back to Arabic influences in Spain and has become a distinctive part of Malaga’s culinary tradition. Miguel León personally selects and sharpens the canes used for his espetos or has them crafted by a local blacksmith. Some experts debate whether using steel skewers alters the flavor of the sardines, but the Mesa del Espeto aims to preserve the traditional method out of respect for cultural heritage. Miguel continues to attract tourists and locals alike who appreciate the artistry and tradition behind his espetos.
While tourists and locals alike admire Miguel’s skill and dedication to making espetos, the lack of interest from younger generations poses a threat to the future of this tradition. Miguel hopes to find someone to carry on the craft but acknowledges the challenges and physical demands of being an espetero. Despite the changing landscape of tourism and dining in Torremolinos, Miguel remains committed to producing top-quality espetos, showcasing the rich culinary heritage of Málaga and the artistry of the espeto. Through his dedication and expertise, Miguel León embodies the spirit of the work and the cultural significance of the espeto in the region.
