Jamie Okuma, a renowned fashion designer and beadwork artist from the La Jolla Indian Reservation in California, was approached to design a custom look for an individual that drew inspiration from their Native roots. Okuma, who is Luiseño and Shoshone-Bannock, immediately felt a connection to the project and decided to create a custom floral evening suit. Drawing on the rich tradition of floral designs in Indigenous cultures, Okuma blended the old with the new to create a contemporary piece that paid homage to her heritage. Through phone calls and virtual fittings, Okuma worked closely with her client to bring their vision to life.
In the design process, Okuma incorporated elements from both her client’s region, Nipissing, as well as her own reservation. Taking inspiration from the client’s favorite flowers, purple lupines and red Indian paintbrushes, Okuma hand-reserve appliquéd photographs of these flowers onto a custom handmade blazer made of fine wool from England. This technique, reminiscent of older Indigenous pieces done by hand before sewing machines were available, added a personal touch to the garment. The blazer’s silk-satin lining featured an original Okuma design that further emphasized the blending of old and new in her work.
For the trousers, Okuma drew inspiration from traditional Indigenous breechclothes, incorporating an asymmetrical panel adorned with crystals and ribbons. By mixing elements of contemporary fashion with traditional Indigenous styles, Okuma sought to create a look that reflected Ojibwe culture in a modern context. Additionally, she wanted to incorporate a piece of history into the ensemble by restoring an antique beaded bag in the Ojibwe style. The over 100-year-old bag was fully covered with antique Venetian beads and adorned with a new strap featuring spiked Swarovski crystals and ribbons, giving it a bandolier look.
The theme of “sleeping beauties” served as inspiration for Okuma’s design, as she sought to bring elements of history back to life for the Met. By restoring and reviving the antique beaded bag, she honored the craftsmanship and artistry of the past while infusing it with contemporary touches. The use of hand-done Venetian beads added a sense of authenticity and human touch to the piece, showcasing Okuma’s dedication to preserving traditional techniques in her work. Through her meticulous handiwork and attention to detail, Okuma was able to create a custom look that celebrated Native culture and craftsmanship in a modern fashion context.
Overall, Jamie Okuma’s collaboration with her client on the custom floral evening suit highlighted her ability to blend traditional Indigenous aesthetics with contemporary fashion sensibilities. By incorporating elements such as hand-reserve appliqué, silk-satin linings, and antique beadwork, Okuma showcased her skill as a designer and beadwork artist. Through this project, she demonstrated the importance of preserving and honoring Native traditions while also pushing the boundaries of what Native fashion can be. The resulting ensemble served as a beautiful and meaningful tribute to the intersection of culture, art, and fashion in Indigenous communities.
