In Mexico City, the first-ever taco stand to receive a Michelin star from the French dining guide is Tacos El Califa de León, run by Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez. Despite the prestigious honor, Chef Martínez continues to cook as he has been for the past 20 years, searing meat over an incredibly hot grill. The simplicity of the taco, with just a tortilla and sauce, along with the quality of the meat, is what makes it stand out. The small, 10-foot by 10-foot business in the San Rafael neighborhood offers only four types of tacos, all made from different parts of a cow’s meat.
El Califa de León is unique among the Michelin-starred restaurants in Mexico, as it is a tiny space with a grill that takes up half of the area and intense heat. The other half is occupied by standing customers and an assistant rolling out tortilla dough. The restaurant has stayed true to its roots since 1968, offering the same four items on the menu and maintaining consistency in its preparation. Chef Martínez works tirelessly throughout the day, grilling thinly sliced beef fillets and assembling tacos with precision.
The prices at El Califa de León are relatively high compared to other taco stands in Mexico, with a single taco costing nearly $5. However, customers are willing to pay for the quality of the meat and the taste of the tacos. Regular patrons like Alberto Muñoz express their loyalty and satisfaction with the establishment, emphasizing the historical significance of the Michelin star for Mexican cuisine. Despite the high temperatures and lack of seating, customers continue to flock to the taco stand for a taste of its renowned tacos.
Owner Mario Hernández Alonso attributes the success of El Califa de León to its resistance to change, maintaining the freshness of the tortillas, the limited menu, and the specific layout of the restaurant. The restaurant has a loyal customer base, which originally included politicians from the old ruling party, but has seen a shift in clientele over the years. While new trends like social media presence and outdoor seating have emerged, Hernández Alonso remains committed to the traditional approach of the business, refusing to fix something that isn’t broken.
The restaurant’s location in a bustling area with street vendors presents a challenge for customers looking to eat on-site. Following the pandemic, Mexico City restaurants have been allowed to open street-side seating areas, but El Califa de León lacks a sidewalk due to the presence of vendors. Despite the obstacles, the business thrives on its longstanding practices and dedication to quality. Chef Martínez and the team at Tacos El Califa de León continue to serve up delicious tacos, earning recognition and admiration for their dedication to the craft.
