Milan Fashion Week kicked off on Friday with a focus on co-ed collections, breaking away from traditional menswear previews. With just 20 runway shows scheduled for the week, designers are taking the opportunity to reflect on the direction of fashion. Moschino set the tone with a show that combined menswear for next summer and women’s 2025 resort collections, followed by Dsquared2 with a full menswear and womenswear presentation.
At Moschino, creative director Adrian Appiolaza brought a sense of freedom of expression through dressing to the runway. The collection played with familiar objects, transforming them into shimmery tanks made from paperclips, jackets covered in textile post-its, and suits deconstructed into dresses. The collection showcased safari wear, beach pareos, and knitwear with playful patterns, all with a sense of adventure and irreverence. The overall theme focused on breaking away from the norm and embracing unique, individual style.
Dsquared2, led by Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten, turned up the heat with a collection that featured men’s and women’s suggestive and transgressive looks. The runway show included male dancers clad in sheer rubberized tanks and black trousers, exuding a sense of theatricality. The collection showcased leather, denim, sheers, sequins, and chiffons, accentuating and revealing the form in sensual and provocative ways. From asymmetric knitwear for men to sequin bikinis worn over athletic shirts, the collection exuded a sense of sensuality and glamour.
The Catens emphasized that their collection aimed to bring love, dreams, and a sense of escape from reality through fashion. The pieces were designed to evoke a feeling of escape, adding a touch of spice and theater to the runway. With a focus on sensual and sexual elements, the Dsquared2 collection offered a wardrobe meant for partying and celebration. From denim dresses held in place by sequined vines to sheer boxers over satin shorts, the collection showcased a mix of fabrics and textures that emphasized the playfulness and boldness of the brand.
Overall, the opening day of Milan Fashion Week highlighted a shift towards a more inclusive and innovative approach to fashion. Designers like Moschino and Dsquared2 showcased collections that embraced individuality, freedom of expression, and a sense of adventure. The runway shows set the tone for the week ahead, promising a mix of creativity, irreverence, and glamour. As the fashion industry continues to evolve, Milan Fashion Week serves as a platform for designers to push boundaries and redefine traditional concepts of menswear and womenswear.
