Lou Whittaker, a renowned American mountaineer who led expeditions up some of the world’s tallest peaks including Mount Everest, K2, and Denali, has passed away at the age of 95. RMI Expeditions, the company he founded in 1969, confirmed his peaceful death at home on Sunday. Whittaker was a pioneer in making mountaineering accessible to the broader public and his leadership helped professionalize mountain guiding. Throughout his career, he saved numerous lives during mountain rescues and taught generations of climbers during his over 250 trips up Mount Rainier.
Lou Whittaker and his twin brother Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Everest in 1963, started their climbing careers in the 1940s with the Boy Scouts. They were involved in mountain rescues early on, including a search for nine troops parachuting over Mount Rainier during a storm. Whittaker saved many lives during rescue missions throughout his career. In the early 1950s, the brothers served in the Army’s Mountain and Cold Weather command, training soldiers in alpine conditions. After their military service, Jim managed REI’s first store while Lou began guiding climbers up peaks like Rainier and Denali.
Despite declining to join his brother Jim’s Everest expedition to open a sports store, Lou Whittaker still shared in his brother’s glory by filling in at events in his honor. He led thousands of clients up Mount Rainier and took pride in the training provided to guides and climbers by RMI. Notable mountaineers like Ed Viesturs, known for summiting the world’s 14 highest peaks without oxygen, trained under Whittaker’s company. Lou Whittaker, who survived avalanches and severe storms, emphasized the rewards and health benefits of climbing rather than focusing on the risks.
While he never summitted Everest himself, Whittaker led an expedition in 1984 that included the first successful American summit from the north side. He acknowledged the dangers of mountaineering but emphasized the rewards and joy it brought. Lou Whittaker stopped climbing in his late 70s but continued to inspire others with his passion for the sport. He is survived by his wife, sons, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren, and was preceded in death by his daughter, Kim. His legacy as a mountaineer and leader in the climbing community will continue to inspire future generations of climbers.
Lou Whittaker’s impact on the world of mountaineering, both as a guide and a mentor, is profound. His dedication to teaching and training aspiring climbers, as well as the risks involved in mountaineering, has left a lasting legacy in the climbing community. His leadership in professionalizing mountain guiding and his numerous accomplishments on some of the world’s tallest peaks have solidified his place as a legend in the history of mountaineering. Whittaker’s passing marks the end of an era for the climbing world, but his contributions will continue to be remembered and honored by those who follow in his footsteps.
