New York Fashion Week might have heard the criticisms about the lack of big-name designers and the longing for designers of the past like Calvin Klein or Helmut Lang, but she is comfortable in her own skin. Fashion is not just about the clothes we wear, but also about how we live in the present moment. American fashion has always been known for its sportswear aesthetic, but a new generation of designers is redefining what that means. Designers like Willy Chavarria, Raul Lopez of Luar, Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada, and Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta are leading the charge in contemporary American fashion.
Willy Chavarria brings Chicano aesthetics into his menswear designs, elevating his collections with drama and specific casting that seeks to redefine modern masculinity and celebrate beauty in brown and Black men. Lopez, of Luar, tells stories through his designs, drawing upon his Dominican upbringing in Brooklyn to create powerful silhouettes that exude electricity on the runway. Taymour’s Collina Strada clothing is characterized by draped, shirred, and layered pieces that are gorgeously chaotic, much like the divine chaos found in nature. Her diverse cast of models reflects real-life diversity, showcasing her clothes worn by people of all ages, genders, and sizes.
Eckhaus and Latta, the seasoned veterans of this group of designers, focus on American sportswear with a pragmatic approach. Their emphasis is on textiles, handiwork, and celebrating the human body as a source of pleasure, creativity, and community. Their 13 years in business have solidified their place as torchbearers for New York’s underground fashion scene. With their focus on jeans, cotton basics, and special knits, they bring a unique perspective to American fashion that is grounded in showcasing the beauty of everyday life.
New York Fashion Week is more than just a showcase of clothing; it is a reflection of the way we live in the city at this moment. The designers who participate in the event, such as Chavarria, Lopez, Taymour, and Eckhaus and Latta, capture the essence of contemporary American fashion with their unique perspectives and approaches. With a focus on redefining masculinity, storytelling through design, celebrating diversity, and showcasing the beauty of everyday life, these designers are pushing the boundaries of what American fashion can be.
Despite criticisms and longing for designers of the past, New York Fashion Week remains a vibrant and essential event in the fashion calendar. The city’s unique brand of underground fashion, exemplified by designers like Chavarria, Lopez, Taymour, Eckhaus, and Latta, continues to push the boundaries of traditional American sportswear and celebrate the diversity and creativity that define the fashion industry. As fashion continues to evolve, these designers are at the forefront of shaping the future of American fashion and reflecting the way we live now in New York City.
