Arturo Rivera Martinez, a newly Michelin-starred chef, runs Tacos El Califa de León, the first Mexican taco stand to receive such an honor. Despite the recognition, Rivera Martinez continues to sear meats over a hot grill just as he has done for the past two decades. The simplicity of the taco stand’s offerings, consisting of various cuts of beef in a tortilla with red or green sauce, paired with the quality of the meat, has endeared them to customers. The stand sticks to its tradition and has remained unchanged since 1968, earning them a Michelin star.
Located in the San Rafael neighborhood in Mexico City, Tacos El Califa de León is a small, one-of-a-kind restaurant among the handful of Mexican eateries to have been awarded Michelin stars. The menu, comprising only four taco options, showcases the simplicity and quality of the food. Rivera Martinez reveals very few secrets about the cooking process, mentioning that the grill must reach a scorching 680 degrees Fahrenheit for the perfect sear. Despite the high prices, customers continue to flock to the taco stand, believing it to be the best in the city.
Maintaining an unchanging menu and layout, the taco stand represents resistance to change. The loyal customer base stems from the nearby political headquarters, although the decline in the ruling party’s presence has shifted the clientele away from politicians. The establishment’s refusal to reveal suppliers or change its operations has kept it true to its roots. While other businesses take advantage of social media and comfortable dining areas post-pandemic, Tacos El Califa de León remains steadfast in its traditional ways.
Despite the lack of seating accommodations and the overpowering heat from the grill, loyal customers continue to patronize the stand, praising the quality of the meat and the freshness of the tortillas. Rivera Martinez’s approach to cooking and serving remains consistent, focusing on providing quality food to his customers. There is a sense of historic significance in El Califa de León receiving a Michelin star, marking a breakthrough for Mexican cuisine and showcasing the simplicity and excellence of its offerings.
While some may question the high prices and lack of seating options, the honor bestowed upon Tacos El Califa de León by the Michelin guide underscores the exceptional quality of the food. As one of the smallest restaurants to receive this recognition, it stands as a testament to the dedication and commitment of its owners and chefs. The refusal to change or compromise on the traditional methods of preparing and serving tacos has propelled the stand to new heights, earning it a place among the elite in the culinary world. Despite the challenges posed by changing times and evolving dining trends, Tacos El Califa de León remains a beacon of authenticity and excellence in the bustling culinary landscape of Mexico City.
