Coffee has become a new canvas for including unconventional ingredients such as butter, olive oil, and even meat, exemplified by Starbucks’ pork latte in Shanghai. Not as Bitter, a coffee shop in the East Village, has taken this trend to the next level with their creation of the durian latte. The durian, known as the “king of fruit,” is infamous for its overpowering odor, often mistaken for a gas leak, leading to its ban from hotels across Southeast Asia. Despite the stench, the durian is highly regarded for its custardy and tender flesh.
Jeffrey Wang, the owner of Not as Bitter, created the durian latte, which has quickly become a top seller at the shop. Wang, originally from Tianjin, China, explained that the unique flavor of the durian surprisingly pairs well with coffee, adding sweetness and creaminess to the brew. The $8.50 durian latte is a coffee cocktail with undiluted durian puree, coconut milk, simple syrup, and two shots of espresso sourced from Guangzhou-based roasters. Wang and his team use whole durians daily from vendors in Malaysia or Thailand, preparing the fruit on-site, instead of using prepackaged powders.
The strong presence of durian can be felt in every sip of the latte, with small chunks of the fruit reaching the back of the throat through the coffee. Despite the initial pungent aroma, the finish is surprisingly sweet, offering a tangy and aromatic mocha base that contradicts the fruit’s foul odor. Not as Bitter’s parent group, UME Hospitality Group, ensures that any leftover durian at the end of the day is discarded, as the puree is solely made from durian and there are no additional ingredients in the mix.
The trend of combining coffee with fruit is not new, with the Not as Bitter team drawing inspiration from China’s macchiato mixologists who have been blending coffee with fruit for some time. The pairing of coffee with fruit is believed to balance the bitterness of coffee for the local palate. The durian latte has proven to be a success for the shop, surpassing other fruit options in sales. Some customers, however, find the taste of durian to be an acquired one, with many unable to handle its strong flavor. Despite this, the durian latte remains a popular choice among coffee lovers looking for a unique and flavorful experience.
