Cap-Haïtien, known as Okap, has a rich history as home to Haiti’s kings, emancipated slaves, and revolutionaries. It was once considered the Paris of the Antilles but now, amidst the chaos in Port-au-Prince, it is on the brink of becoming Haiti’s de facto capital. The city offers a sense of tranquility and safety that is absent in the capital, with residents able to walk freely, stay out late, and enjoy the palm tree-lined streets without fear of violence.
The recent surge in gang violence in Haiti has taken a devastating toll, with over 2,500 people killed or injured in the first three months of the year. However, Cap-Haïtien has remained relatively peaceful, attributed in part to the demolition of over 1,500 homes in the city’s southern outskirts that were infiltrated by gangs. This calm has attracted thousands fleeing the violence in Port-au-Prince, leading to overcrowding and resource shortages in Cap-Haïtien. The city lacks the infrastructure to support the influx of migrants, with many forced to sleep on the streets while schools struggle to accommodate the growing number of students.
Despite the challenges posed by the influx of migrants, Cap-Haïtien provides a sense of peace and security that is lacking in other parts of the country. Schools in the city have seen a significant increase in enrollment, with many children arriving from Port-au-Prince falling behind in their studies due to the closure of schools in the capital. The absence of heavily armed guards at schools and businesses is a stark contrast to the situation in Port-au-Prince, where violence and extortion have become commonplace. Residents of Cap-Haïtien are able to enjoy a sense of normalcy, gathering in public spaces without fear of violence.
While Cap-Haïtien offers a reprieve from the violence that plagues Port-au-Prince, the city still faces many challenges, including poverty, traffic congestion, and waste management issues. Despite these challenges, residents like Baby Dovelus, who returned to Cap-Haïtien after a student was kidnapped in Port-au-Prince, feel a sense of relief and safety in the city. As more Haitians make the move to Cap-Haïtien, there are calls for decentralization of the government to truly make the city the capital again. Patrick Almonor, Cap-Haïtien’s deputy mayor, believes that by avoiding the mistakes of concentrating power in one area, the city has the potential to become the capital once more.
As Cap-Haïtien continues to attract migrants fleeing violence in Port-au-Prince, there are concerns about the safety of the journey between the two cities. The gangs controlling the main road from Port-au-Prince to Cap-Haïtien have posed a threat to public buses, putting travelers at risk. Despite the dangers, many Haitians see Cap-Haïtien as a beacon of hope and stability in a country plagued by violence and instability. With the support of local authorities and community members, the city has the potential to become a symbol of resilience and progress for Haiti as it navigates through challenging times.
