Food historian Alberto Grandi has caused quite a stir in Italy by claiming in his book “La Cucina Italiana Non Esiste – Italian Cuisine Does Not Exist” that the red tomato sauce on pizza, known as pizza rossa, was actually a creation of the United States, not Italy. He argues that the use of tomato sauce as a base for Italian cuisine was discovered by Italians emigrating to the US between 1880 and 1920 and then brought back to Italy. Before this period, pizza in Italy consisted of a circular focaccia with various toppings, according to Grandi and his co-author Daniele Soffiati.
The book claims that the US began mass-producing tomato sauce in the 19th century, leading Italian immigrants to open numerous pizzerias and popularizing the use of tomato sauce on pizza. The authors assert that American soldiers landing in Sicily during World War II were surprised to find a lack of pizzerias in Italy, attributing the spread of pizza with tomato sauce to the influence of returning Italian immigrants who had learned this culinary innovation in the US.
However, Italian pizza makers have vehemently rejected Grandi’s claims, insisting that tomato sauce on pizza is a fundamental part of Italian cuisine and predates any American influence. Pizzaiolos like Gianni Altrui and Clariston Alves argue that the Margherita pizza, which dates back to 1889 in Naples, represents the true origins of pizza with tomato sauce, as it was created in honor of Queen Margherita of Savoy and features basil, mozzarella, and tomato to evoke the colors of the Italian flag.
In addition to pizza, Grandi also suggests that other classic Italian dishes, such as spaghetti carbonara, may have been influenced by American ingredients brought over during World War II. He believes that Italian pride is clouding the judgment of those who reject his theories and that Italian cuisine has continuously evolved over time due to cultural interactions. Grandi feels that critics are trying to preserve a distinct Italian identity in the face of globalization and immigration, with politicians like Italy’s Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni appointing a minister for food sovereignty to protect traditional Italian food products.
Despite facing backlash for his claims, Grandi defends his research as a way to reconstruct the authentic history of Italian dishes through rigorous study and analysis. He maintains that his focus is not to question the quality of Italian food but to shed light on the cultural exchanges and influences that have shaped Italian cuisine over the years. In an era where culinary traditions are constantly evolving, Grandi believes that understanding the origins of dishes like pizza and carbonara can help broaden our appreciation for the diverse and interconnected world of food.
