Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the current designer at Hermès, discusses the designers who preceded her at the iconic fashion house. Jean Paul Gaultier, known for his experimental nature, played with expanding the silhouette while still incorporating ideas like fetishism during his time at Hermès. Martin Margiela, who came before Gaultier, is described as a sort of consolidator, helping to establish the fundamentals of the brand. Christophe Lemaire, Vanhee-Cybulski’s immediate predecessor, brought his own brand to the house, but she wanted to take a different approach and be more of a searcher. Drawing inspiration from the first silhouettes designed in the ’20s and ’30s by women designers like Lola Prusac and Catherine de Karolyi, Vanhee-Cybulski chose to look more towards the women who have made an impact on Hermès throughout its history.
As a woman designer, Vanhee-Cybulski discusses the concept of gender in the fashion world. She notes that gender should not define one’s skill or ability as a designer, and she feels frustrated when she has to justify her position based on her gender. Despite the progress that has been made towards gender equality, particularly in industries like fashion, she believes there is still more work to be done. The conversation around women designers is important, but she does not believe being a woman automatically makes her a better designer.
Vanhee-Cybulski emphasizes the importance of function over form at Hermès. The brand is focused on creating timeless pieces that are meant to be passed down through generations. Customers often feel a strong connection to their Hermès items, viewing them as stable objects with a sense of heritage. The brand’s motto of designing objects that serve a practical purpose in everyday life reinforces the idea of functionality, which Vanhee-Cybulski believes is key to remaining relevant in the fashion industry. She notes that many models and customers recontextualize vintage Hermès pieces, showcasing the lasting impact and versatility of the brand’s designs.
Overall, Vanhee-Cybulski is inspired by the history of Hermès and the women designers who have left their mark on the brand. She appreciates the legacy of creativity and craftsmanship that has been passed down through the years and strives to honor that tradition in her own work. While she acknowledges the progress that has been made towards gender equality in the industry, she remains focused on her passion for creating timeless, functional pieces that will stand the test of time. Through her unique perspective and dedication to the brand’s heritage, Vanhee-Cybulski continues to push boundaries and redefine what it means to be a designer at Hermès.
