Anastasia Boyko, a resident of Ukraine, decided to stay in the country with her three-month-old baby and contribute to the war effort by using her family’s traditional embroidery skills. She began making clothing that embodied her identity and symbolized protest against the ongoing war with Russia. Ukrainian fashion is experiencing a revival, with designers incorporating traditional elements into modern clothing to preserve the country’s culture that Russia is attempting to erase. The “vyshyvanka,” a traditional embroidered shirt, is a prominent piece of national clothing, along with other items like the “plakhta,” “sylianka,” “sharovary,” and “kraika.”
Anastasia’s brand, 1991 Ethno Studio, gained popularity for her vintage blazers decorated with Ukrainian embroidery. She worked closely with an ethnologist to research traditional patterns used in Ukrainian clothing and found that embroidery was historically used to join pieces of fabric together and embellish certain areas. Ukrainian embroidery is filled with different symbols, each holding personal meanings for the embroiderer. During periods of Russification under the Soviet Union, Ukrainian cultural heritage was degraded, impacting the collective memory of the symbols used in traditional clothing.
Fashion designer Sofia Rositska founded Marevo, a clothing brand that reimagines Ukrainian heritage dress, incorporating traditional elements in modern designs. Her brand started by selling decorated shopping bags, stickers, and posters, with proceeds going towards supporting the Ukrainian military. Rositska believes in constantly reinterpreting Ukrainian traditions to avoid repetition and mechanical replication. Items like headscarves and beaded necklaces are important elements of Ukrainian national costume, passed down through generations of women and worn in accordance with marital status.
Ukrainian designers are bringing new life to traditional clothing items that have lost their original functions, such as the kraika and wide shirt sleeves. By adding authentic elements to modern designs, designers are able to connect with Ukrainian cultural roots and history. The incorporation of traditional elements in contemporary fashion serves as a way to understand and appreciate Ukrainian cultural background. Through the revival of traditional clothing and the reinterpretation of ancient designs, Ukrainian fashion designers are actively preserving the country’s cultural heritage and promoting national pride amidst ongoing conflict with Russia.
In conclusion, the renaissance of Ukrainian fashion is a form of resistance against Russia’s attempts to erase the country’s cultural identity. Designers like Anastasia Boyko and Sofia Rositska are using traditional embroidery and clothing elements to symbolize protest against the war and to preserve Ukrainian heritage. By incorporating these elements into modern designs, these designers are not only creating fashionable clothing but also reconnecting with their cultural roots and bringing awareness to the rich history and traditions of Ukraine. Through their work, they are inspiring a sense of national pride and solidarity among Ukrainians during these challenging times.
