The Prada Group is focusing on expanding its production footprint in Italy, particularly at its knitwear factory in Umbria, where they have added 30 new jobs this year, alongside 65 last year. The company is investing 60 million euros in production this year as part of an effort to lean into the “Made in Italy” ethos that is integral to the brand’s identity. This move comes as Prada undergoes a generational shift in its workforce, with CEO Andrea Guerra emphasizing the importance of developing new artisanal talent to sustain the growth in knitwear production.
The Torgiano plant, which was bought by Prada in 2001, has seen significant growth in its workforce and production capacity over the years. It now employs around 220 employees, mostly women, who create knitwear for the Prada and Miu Miu brands. The plant has evolved from being primarily focused on product research and development to becoming an industrial hub that includes production alongside a reinforced R&D center. The network around the Torgiano plant consists of smaller companies that collectively produce thousands of knitwear pieces each month for the luxury group.
Prada’s approach to manufacturing in central Italy involves building a network of relationships with smaller companies that offer specific skills, which the company refers to as “partners” or “collaborators.” This vertical integration of the supply chain is seen as a way to exert greater control over production processes and ensure quality standards while avoiding the exploitation and poor working conditions that have emerged in other parts of Italy. Investments in the supply chain integration have been a key focus for Prada, particularly in light of upcoming legislation that will make supplier audits mandatory in 2025.
The transition to mandatory supplier audits is part of broader efforts to secure transparency and accountability in the fashion industry, with publicly quoted companies like Prada expected to have an easier time complying due to their existing level of reporting and transparency. Fashion and luxury expert Stefania Saviolo highlights the importance of building long-term partnerships with smaller companies rather than focusing solely on ownership. This approach not only strengthens the supply chain but also provides security to smaller companies vulnerable to market fluctuations.
One of the central goals of Prada’s investments is to ensure the transfer of know-how to the next generation, both in terms of production skills and management roles within the company. Finding experienced and passionate workers in regions like Umbria, where knitwear is a traditional craft, can be challenging. To address this gap, Prada runs an internal academy at its production sites to train young craftspeople. The company sees this as crucial for training future technicians and ensuring a sustainable cycle of knowledge transfer within the group. The emphasis on investing in talent development reflects Prada’s commitment to securing the future of its workforce and maintaining its position as a leading luxury brand in the fashion industry.
