Inflation is causing consumers to shift away from pricey chefs’ tasting menus at high-end restaurants in New York City in favor of more affordable a la carte options that can be shared. This trend is causing new restaurants to avoid launching tasting menus and existing ones to downsize the prices and time-consuming nature of these menus. Industry experts are attributing the decline of tasting menus to rising costs of goods, staffing, and the overall price point associated with dining out. Restaurateur Jeff Katz’s Italian eatery Al Coro, which offered tasting menus with options ranging from $210-$265 per person, closed due to lack of interest in these expensive experiences.
In response to changing consumer preferences, upscale restaurants like Marea, Eleven Madison Park, and Le Bernardin are moving away from tasting menus in favor of more affordable a la carte options, either at the bar or in a lounge setting. Industry consultant Donny Evans believes that tasting menus may become a thing of the past as customers are unwilling to pay upwards of $200 per person for a set menu. Katz and celebrated chef Melissa Rodriguez, who previously worked at Del Posto under Chef Mario Batali, are collaborating on a new restaurant called Crane Club that will offer a more intimate dining experience with an emphasis on shared plates on an a la carte menu.
The space that will house Crane Club was previously home to Al Coro and Del Posto before their closures in 2021. Rodriguez and Katz are working to create a more inclusive work environment in their new venture, contrasting with the toxic workplace culture that emerged under Batali’s leadership. The menu at Crane Club will feature dishes cooked on a custom-designed live-fire grill, showcasing grilled vegetables, meats, and seafood with an extensive wine list. The a la carte menu will include a variety of elevated dishes like wood-grilled Dover sole, dry-aged filet mignon, and specialty desserts created by Chef Georgia Wodder.
Crane Club will be physically smaller and more intimate than its predecessors, with a focus on creating an inclusive dining experience for guests. The bar program will be overseen by an experienced mixologist, adding to the overall ambiance and dining experience at the restaurant. Katz believes that the trend away from tasting menus is reflective of changing consumer interests in New York City, where diners are seeking more choice and flexibility in their dining experiences. The restaurant industry is evolving to meet these demands, with a focus on affordability, inclusivity, and shared dining experiences.
The closure of high-end restaurants like Al Coro and Marea in New York City highlights the shifting landscape of the dining scene, with a focus on more affordable and flexible dining options. Restaurants like Eleven Madison Park and Le Bernardin are adapting to consumer preferences by offering a la carte menus in addition to their traditional tasting menu offerings. The opening of Crane Club represents a new era in fine dining, with an emphasis on shared plates, inclusivity, and a more intimate dining experience for guests. As the industry continues to evolve, restaurants are adjusting their offerings to cater to changing consumer tastes and preferences.
