Tourists are drawn to Macerata, a small hilltop city in the Marche region, for the annual summer opera festival and the famous seven-layer baked pasta dish known as vincisgrassi. The dish has its origins in princisgras, a pasta casserole served to local nobility in the 18th century. The traditional recipe for vincisgrassi includes a meaty ragù made with various farmyard animals, as well as a nutmeg-inflected béchamel sauce. The Carducci siblings at Osteria Dei Fiori have built on this recipe, adding their own twist with duck, chicken, rabbit, and pork, as well as dessert wine to enhance the flavors. The result is an earthy and luxurious dish that pairs well with Gàjole Verdicchio di Matelica 2021.
In a conversation among residents of Macerata, the origins and significance of vincisgrassi are discussed. While some say the dish is named after an Austrian officer stationed in the region, others point out that it is Macerata’s ancestral lasagna. Although vincisgrassi may resemble traditional lasagna, the Maceratese prefer not to classify it as such, considering it a unique and rich layered pasta dish. Historically, these types of dishes were consumed only once or twice a year, with people eating more frugally on a day-to-day basis. Traditional dishes like vincisgrassi were meant to provide sustenance and warmth in a time when calories were needed to stay warm.
The conversation also touches on the idea of modernizing traditional dishes like vincisgrassi to make them lighter. However, there is a consensus among the group that it is important to preserve the rich flavors and history of these dishes by maintaining their traditional preparation methods. While portion sizes can be adjusted to fit modern dining habits, the essence of the dish should remain true to its origins. Vincisgrassi, like many traditional Italian foods, is a reminder of a time before modern conveniences when food served a dual purpose of nourishment and warmth.
The Carducci siblings at Osteria Dei Fiori have remained faithful to the traditional recipe for vincisgrassi, using a rich meaty ragù and a decadent béchamel sauce. The addition of duck, chicken, rabbit, and pork adds complexity to the dish, while the use of vino cotto in the pasta dough and sauce enhances the flavors. By sticking to the traditional preparation methods, the Carduccis have ensured that their vincisgrassi remains a beloved dish in Macerata. Visitors to the city can enjoy this hearty and flavorful dish, accompanied by a recommended wine pairing, as they take in the sights and sounds of the summer opera festival in this charming hilltop city.
In conclusion, vincisgrassi is a beloved traditional dish in Macerata, known for its rich and layered flavors that harken back to a time when food served as both sustenance and warmth. The Carducci siblings have continued to honor the origins of the dish at their family-run restaurant, Osteria Dei Fiori, by using a time-honored recipe that includes a meaty ragù, béchamel sauce, and a unique combination of meats. While modern interpretations of traditional dishes are sometimes suggested, the group of residents in Macerata agrees that the true essence of these dishes should be preserved to honor their history and flavors. Tourists visiting Macerata can experience the authentic taste of vincisgrassi at Osteria Dei Fiori, along with the summer opera festival and other cultural attractions that make this hilltop city a popular destination in the Marche region.
